Despite being the symbol for all things marijuana, the cannabis leaf is as innocuous as chomping on your run-of-the-mill leafy green. Much like this psychoactive misnomer, high fashion’s resurgence of cannabis iconography is less potent than it claims to be.

Perhaps reinvigorated to its full degree in Alexander Wang’s FW 2016 ready to wear collection—in which Karen Elson lookalikes donning skirts and coats embroidered with pot leaves plodded down the runway in studded, cannabis-inspired ankle boots—weed-as-muse has seen a steady rise correlative to the spread of recreational cannabis legalization in the US. Vivienne Westwood by Andreas Kronthaler welcomed the weed leaf into their quirky lexicon of oversized accessories a la Dsquared’s strappy, jeweled weed leaf stilettos from the mid-aughts; Jeremy Scott’s personal brand and many a “transgressive” fast fashion label haven’t missed a beat in this revolution either.

But what is the revolution exactly? As corporations latch their suckers onto the final push for federal cannabis reform, marijuana appears to be nothing but another gag in the marketable hypebeast costume kit. Sporting a three-figure tee with a weed pun emblazoned on it is hardly a conversation starter anymore, but perhaps it should be; with thousands of individuals, predominantly black men, sitting in jail cells for cannabis-related offenses, is fashion celebrating the marijuana victory too early?

COUNTERCULTURE IS DEAD

Cannabis is the go-to accessory in the hip designer’s arsenal of risk-free rule-breaking. There is no social penalty for sending models in cannabis pasties down the runway. In fact, Anna Wintour’s shaded eyes might just glaze over and reach for her coffee. “Lazy” is a word that comes to mind with the proliferation of cannabis leaf sweaters, grinder necklaces, and the like.

But there is a very real penalty for being a marginalized cannabis user in today’s America. The antiquated federal scheduling of cannabis makes it a convenient avenue for law enforcement to flex their decision-making skills with no fear of reprisal. Even as midwestern and southern states usher in novel and groundbreaking cannabis laws, you can expect a hefty period of bureaucratic stalemate before the arrests stop. And what of those offenders released from jail only to struggle to find work in any industry, much less fashion; are these the muses Wang, Westwood, and Co. are championing in their designs?

It’s not an individual designer’s job to resolve nearly a century’s worth of prohibition and racism with their collections. However, for those who succeed and profit off a socially progressive image, the cannabis leaf is an already tired symbol of something it doesn’t really represent anymore. In your average dispensary, you are just as likely to see Martha Stewart as you are Rihanna or your favorite conservative lawmaker. And that’s the “beauty” of cannabis, right? It’s for everybody—except those convicted for its possession and handling.

THE LAZINESS OF CANNABIS FASHION

The weed leaf is an obvious symbol to represent such a multi-faceted herb, one whose medicinal applications are now largely being eclipsed by its financial prospects. And it’s as easy an addition to streetwear as it is to couture and accessories. But that’s it—an addition. A smirk here and a wink there, the high fashion world will soon shun the weed leaf as Main Streets around the country fill up with smoke.

In the same way the cannabis leaf contains almost no THC, there’s little emotion in the modern designer’s interpretation of pot, despite the well of inspiration, both good and bad, to draw from.

And that’s the thing; not only are designers ignoring the real world impact of the herb—it’s not even on their radar.

LONG LIVE RIHANNA

Perhaps fashion’s most intriguing representation of cannabis arrives in the form of uber-influential figures like Rihanna, who manage to shine a light on the successful and savvy cannabis user—the 21st century stoner who takes business seriously, but knows when to take a step back and enjoy being in the moment.

And it’s this sort of authentic and indirect approach that actually ignites new appeal surrounding cannabis’ place in fashion, especially in an industry known for glamorizing much harder drugs. Weed…it’s just not a big deal.

Hopefully, in the fashion world and beyond—this will soon truly be the case.